Archive for the ‘English’ Category

Pictures from Iran

Finally, I uploaded a selection of pictures from Iran. I hope you enjoy them.

Ich habe endlich eine Auswahl meiner Bilder vom Iran hochgeladen. Ich hoffe sie ergänzen euer Bild dieses Landes.

Teheran

Qom

Kashan

Isfahan

From Isfahan to the border of Pakistan

 

How to get a visa for Pakistan in Teheran

  1. Learn to understand Indian English. It will be of much use to you when you deal with the embassy folks. If you don’t understand it you might find yourself in dialogs like the following:

    Embassy staff member: “***some really tough subcontinental English*** – do you understand?”
    Me: “No, I don’t understand.”
    He: “Can’t you speak English?”

  2. Go to your own embassy and get a recommendation letter. Or first call the Pakistanis and ask if it is still needed: 66944888. In the Swiss case, it costs you 40 Swiss franks (today: 360′000 IR) and you can get it between 8.30 and 11.30. Have a look at the current opening hours.
  3. Get a visa application form at the Pakistani embassy and fill in everything needed. To lower confusion:
    • It is necessary to provide an address in Pakistan, any hotel will do.
    • And they want the address of two persons coming up for the costs in case of an accident or such. That these two addresses were exactly the same, only the first name of my parents was different was not a problem.
    • There are also lines for the same thing with addresses in Pakistan, I left them blank, that was ok.
  4. Next they want you to write a personal application. They gave me a blank sheet of paper and I wrote an application with my hand.

    Dear Sir
    I hereby apply…

    It feels weird.
    You should state why you want to visit Pakistan, how long, when and especially why you did not apply for the visa in your homecountry.

  5. Hand in:
    • the application form
    • the handwritten application
    • three photos of you
    • the recommendation letter
    • a copy of every page of your passport that has a stamp or anything on it

    Hand it in between 9.00 and 11.00. But too early does not make a lot of sense, because they will let you wait until 11.00, then ask you a few questions and then tell you to call again in about 3 working days. They told me to call 4 days later, between was also the weekend (Thursday and Friday).

  6. You call, you go to the embassy. They tell you to deposit money on a bank account. In my case 32 Dollar respectivelly 320000 Rial. Walk south from the crossing until the end of the street, then right, and just over the crossing you find the bank, badly signed. You go back, hand in the receipt from the bank and your passport and they tell you to pick up your passport a few hours later with a receipt they give you. This time use the main entrance.
  7. For Swiss overlanders: Apply at home! You can get a three month visa with a flexible entry date within the next year.

Address of the embassy of Pakistan on Teheran:
Block No 1
Ahmed Etimadzadeh Alley
Dr. Hussain Fatimi St.
North Jamshidabad
14118 Teheran
www.parepteheran.org

 

Iran through the eyes of a woman

annikaI already stated that my texts are missing the view of women. Luckily I met a traveler who can provide it. Annika travelled overland from Berlin to Pakistan to study in Islamabad for a semester. (who calls me crazy anymore?) I am happy she provides a guestpost to my blog. If you like it, read more from her on her blog: traveleidoscopia.blogspot.com

From the eyes of a woman

„If I want to travel, I have to get a passport. To get a passport, my father or my husband have to agree on it. As they don’t want me to travel alone, I don’t get a passport. I’m trapped.“

The freedom of a woman or a girl in Iran depends a lot on the place where she lives (as not all of the places are as westernized as Teheran) as well as on the family (how much the parents allow). This is how I perceived it first.

One girl told me that she would love to travel but that her parents don’t allow it to her. Her only chance will be, as she put it, to marry an open minded man who let’s her go to travel. But finding such a person isn’t so easy in a gender separating society as the Iranian, where one of the first contacts with a person from the other sex is in university (besides the family relatives from the other sex that you might have contact with).And even if you get in contact with a possible open minded future husband: your parents will have to agree on him and what to do about it, if they want to choose or don’t approve your choice?

Women have relationships before marriage, but one women in Tabriz summarized what a lot of women I spoke to, expressed: „When you have a boyfriend before marriage, which most of the girls have, and you might have sex with him (which is forbidden), he will not marry you afterwards, because he thinks that you are a bad girl.“

But the daily problems go further than the decision about relationships. They touch the decisions made on a personal level for an independend life. It is hard for a woman to divorce from her husband without his agreement and renting an appartment is not possible without the father’s or husband’s permission.

A friend whom I was walking in the streets the other day told me about her brother’s wife. She had cysts and needed a life-saving operation. For this operation her husband had to sign a paper that he gives the doctors permission to make the surgery. Even before she went into the operation he was called again to confirm that he agreed on her being operated although she might loose her futility. And he was asked again and again how many children he already had and if he wouldn’t like to have more. (Well…how can he have more, when his beloved wife dies? Except of the idea of „replacing“ her…).

These are just kaleidoscopick minipixels out of the talks I had in the recent days in Iran with some women.

Friends and family asked me how I cope with wearing a hejab, the in Iran compulsory covering of your hair. It is just a piece of cloth. Wearing a hejab and a manteau for two weeks isn’t too bad. It is just some extra clothes that you have to get used to, despite the fact that most of the women wear the hejab more loosely than you might think. And by going into a catholic church in Italy you would also adjust to the dress code, I guess…

„It is not that we have to wear this“ said Afsane one day while pointing to the hejab, „or that we have to obey some extra rules and get along with our families: it is the whole society. Even if my family is open minded and I can do what I want, there’ll be neighbours, gossipping and rules that can make a women’s life hell here.“

 

Pakistan – was wollt ihr wissen? / what do you want to know?

Ich bin nun schon etwas mehr als drei Wochen im Pakistan. Die Eindrücke die man hier von dem Land kriegt sind ganz anders als den Eindruck den man zuhause davon kriegt. Und es sind viele Eindrücke die man hier kriegt. Ich weiss gar nicht wo mit erzählen beginnen. Deshalb hier die Frage an meine Leser: Was wollt ihr über Pakistan wissen? Was soll ich euch erzählen?

Hinterlasst einen Kommentar und dann finde ich hoffentlich bald die Zeit was dazu zu schreiben.

Dave


I am now in Pakistan for a little more than three weeks. The impressions you get from the country here are very different from the impression you get from it at home. And you get a lot of impressions here! I don’t really know where to start. So here is my question to my readers: What do you want to know about Pakistan? What should I write you about?

Leave a comment and hopefully I soon find time and energy to write about it.

Cheers, David

 

Welcome to Pakistan

What is the biggest danger for tourists in Pakistan? Do you think of Terrorists, Taliban, bombs and kidnappings?

If so, you are mightily wrong. It is plain and simple Diarrhea.

I am quite well again. But not really in the mood for writing. Jan, one of my fellow travellers was. So if you want to get a glance at my last experiences in Pakistan, I recommend to read his articles:

 

Do you want to be a star?

Here is your chance: Go to Iran and show that you are a tourist. For most of the tourists that is a simple task, just be yourself. People will start talking to you on the street. They want to take a picture of you and them.
If you are on a bicycle it is not enough for them to slow down and ask where you are from. They will take out their camera and film you or take pictures. And when I went to visit an English institute, I had to give my autogramm away many times…

superstar
This picture was taken while we were both driving.

 

More for the eyes – Mehr für die Augen…

I have added some more pictures from my way to Teheran:
Ich habe noch einige Bilder von meinem Weg nach Teheran hochgeladen:


If you want to read on, I have some new links from other travellers:
Wer weitere Reiseberichte lesen will, hier sind einige neue Links:

  • Jan und Dusan from Slowakia. Going east on the bicycle. Great read.
  • Annika travelled overland to Pakistan and is going to be there for an exchange semester. Her blog is great read, e.g. the current post about tents and camping in Iran.
  • Arjen from the Netherlands. If you speak Dutch…
  • Bernhard, mit dem Motorrad von Linz Richtung Osten
  •  

    Relationships 2: Talking about marriage in Iran

    And here comes the true cultural shock: Let’s talk about marriage.

    Maybe you have read that it it is possible in Iran to marry for 48 hours. Well, here is the story.

    The following is a condensate of some talks I had with Iranian people.

    When we go to Mekka and speak with the men from Saudi-Arabia, they are shaking their heads when they hear that we have only one wive. “Four, man, take four!” is what they say.

    At the time of Mohammed, a lot of men died in wars and a woman had no legal protection if not married. So it was very important for the women that they were married. But with not enough men around it was a good invention that one man could take care for more than one wife. And that was not for fun, he maybe took care of an old widow.
    But the Saudi-Arabis took the rule and use it for fun…[1]

    We have that one family in our town, they are two wives and one man. Everybody is wondering how this family is working, but nobody has contact with them. The wives don’t want their husbands to learn something from that man.

    But there are situation that are different:
    There is this neighbour couple, he is about 60 and she 70, he is fit and she already senile. She cannot really take care of him anymore. In one of her clear moments, she was asking her neighbours if they cannot find a woman for her husband, he needs someone who can take care of him.
    Seriously. They think that way.

    Before another example, let’s have a look at the law:

    The Law

    There is the official marriage. With name changing and everything. And then there is the religious marriage. You can do one without the other one. And now comes the funny thing: The religious marriage can have a time limit. This is based on one phrase in the Koran that is discussable [1]. It says something like: ‘You can take a wife to your home for some time.’ Some muslims see that relating to a servant that you can fixly integrate in your household for some time by marrying her, others think it relates to short time marriage. Anyway, this is possible now in Iran. You can go to a Mullah, pay some money (about 60 Dollar), speak some sentences and you are married for as long as you want: a year, a month, 48 hours or forever. (The thing has a constraint, the koran expects divorced women to first have their menstruation twice before marrying again.)
    You may ask: What could a short time marriage be good for? Well, sex without marriage is illegal. You can get killed for that in Iran. It is just very funny for an outsider that the marriage does not have to be an official official one, a religious one is official enough. Seems like a religious marriage is some semi-official marriage with more flexibility but full protection of your sexual intercourse by the law. Crazy, isn’t it.

    So, back to this little town:

    There is a widow. She for sure wants to be with someone again. Not only for a relationship, but also economically it would be good. There are some man queueing up, but they all are married already. No unmarried men over 40 around. Most of them just want to marry her for one year. She will only accept a proposal from someone that marries her forever.

    Now she got married again. I asked how this is going to work: They will see each other about once a week and she will get some money from him, the rest of the time he will spend with his family. The whole thing will be a big secret, because people would speak bad about you.
    There are only few men thinking about marrying a second time, maybe one percent does even consider this, and this thinking is not liked in the community.

    So what is the widows idea about that? “You have to take what you get.”
    And I asked her son what he thinks about it: “You told me people here don’t like men that take a second wife. Men like the new husband of your mother. But you support him. Why?”
    “He supports my mummy, so I support him”.

    So, how can we as westerner think of the whole thing? Having a lover in Iran can kill you. Having a second wife can be like having a lover, equally disregarded by the society. And having a marriage on time can be thought of like having a boyfriend/girlfriend after you reached a certain age – just makes the whole thing legal. Still it is very strange what behaviour is excused here with religion.
    But what looks very strange on first sight, is not so strange anymore after a closer look. People are also mostly living monogamous. But there are always some other relations around. And because of a different law systems and culture, the relations out of the norm find complete different niches to exist in Iran.


    [1] Christians well versed in the bible can understand that well. Take one discussable sentence (or even just a word!) in a holy book and you can end up having two different theologies, split-up communities and so on

     

    Bicyle Shop in Tabriz

    There are a few bicycle stores in Tabriz. But there is one that got some reputation in the cycling community. I guess not because of the ‘free service for tourists’, but because they do their work with passion, have a lot of spare parts and are very friendly.

    So if your bike needs something and you are in Tabriz, that is the place to go:

    Saeed Mohammadi Bike
    Nader sq
    Tabriz
    Tel 280 77 76
    saeedbike.blogfa.com

    A few years ago, someone stopped Steven on the street while he was cycling into Tabriz: “Hello Mister, you have a problem with your bike”. He brought him to his cousin Saeed and because they did not have the spare parts he needed, they drove him to all bike shops in town. Great service, isn’t it?!

    Funny sidestory: Steven gave me some pictures (that I carried with me all through Turkey) to bring them to Saeed. They came along with a visit card with the address. When I asked at the hotel reception where this address his, the man said: “In Esfahan”. I obviously had the wrong visitcard in my hands. However, Chris also had an address of a good bike shop, so we went there to look for spare parts. When I sat at the table, waiting for my bicycle to be ready again, I compared the table on the pictures in my hand with the table in front of me and started wondering…
    The table on the picture and the one in front of me where the same! I was in the right place and could deliver the pictures!


    However, a word of warning has to be said: While the service of Saeed is good, it is not perfect. I had to readjust my gearshift after the visit and if they want to exchange all your spikes, you better say no…


    Saeed has a guestbook and it was fascinating to have a look at all the travellers that passed through this place.
    Here is a list of the homepages I could find in the guestbook, the oldest entries were about 15 years old:

     

    Der Bazaar in Tabriz – The Bazaar of Tabriz